Tricks Of The Trade

Before going on I want to point out that when I use the word "handler" I do not necessarily mean a professional handler. The handler is the person actually in the ring with the dog. He is a professional only if showing dogs is his profession and he gets paid for being in the ring with the dog. You who are not familiar with the word may misinterpret some of my statements. When I say, "watch the good handlers," I do not necessarily mean the professional handlers. There are good handlers who are strictly amateurs.

Along with the two main mistakes a novice exhibitor makes, that of holding the show lead in two hands instead of one, and of taking tiny little mincing steps when gaiting his dog, there are many small things, not exactly mistakes, which should be pointed out to him in order to improve his handling. These are not in any particular order of importance, for when it conies right down to fine points, they are all important.

When showing your dog, use a firm hand—firm but not rough. The rough handling, if you have a hardheaded dog, should be done at home during the training period, certainly not in the show ring. Occasionally it may be necessary to reprimand a dog in the ring if he seems to have forgotten all his training, but when it is necessary, you should speak harshly to him, perhaps using a few light taps where they will do the most good. A hard smack will give the judge and the spectators the impression that you do not love your dog, that the win is more important to you than the dog, and that you have done no training at home. The gasp that goes up around the ringside whenever a dog is loudly spanked in the ring, even though the dog is not hurt, will convince you that I am correct. It is necessary that you acquire a firm hand so that the dog knows what you expect of him. A wishy-washy touch with a dog is as bad as a wishy-washy handshake. The limp handshake might lose you an expected friend and a too-light touch with a dog might lose you an expected ribbon.

Don't get down on both knees when you pose your dog. In order to get out of this position you must shift all your weight to one knee while you are bringing the other foot into position to stand on it. Frequently you lose your balance getting out of this position. I will admit that sitting on your heels during a large class is better than having nothing to sit on, but in the long run you will find the position has more drawbacks than it has comfort. In showing a great many breeds you will be standing upright all of the time, but if you must get down lower, try the squat, or try placing only one knee on the ground and keep the other leg bent. Whichever you choose, keep your back as straight as possible. Either of these two positions allows you to get on your feet quickly and gracefully without the danger of losing your balance.
When you are in the show ring, don't waste your time looking aimlessly around. While waiting for the class to begin, glance at your dog frequently to be sure he has not assumed a grotesque pose or that he is not getting into some mischief with another dog while you are staring into space. While the dog is in a show pose, check on him frequently to be sure he has not stepped into a less attractive stance. If he is maintaining the correct pose, don't fuss with him. Unless there is something that needs correcting, don't spoil the picture your dog is making by nervous fussing with him which will accomplish nothing.

These words remind me of a story told by Charles Palmer, the very well-known professional sporting-dog handler. Charlie was watching the judging of Best of Breed in a fairly popular breed. There were twelve or thirteen dogs competing, all quite well known and all well above average for the breed. Since it was at the Westminster Kennel Club show, each owner or handler wanted desperately to be given the nod, saying his dog had won. The ringside was very quiet, the mood tense, the perspiration flowing freely from the brows of every exhibitor in the ring. Charlie leaned toward a friend and said that he noticed that all the handlers were fussing with their dogs to the point where the judge was not getting a decent picture of any. Only one handler, pointed out Charlie, had his dog properly set up in full view of the judge; only this one dog was correctly posed every time the judge looked at him. "I'm not saying he is the best dog" said Charlie, "but if those other fellows don't watch out, they'll convince the judge he is." The judge took his time going over each dog many times, for they were all good ones, but every time his eyes passed over the lot, only one dog stood out. This dog finally got the award amid great applause. Do you get the lesson I am trying to point out ? If not, reread this paragraph again after you have been showing for a time; you'll get it then, I'm sure.

If you are showing your dog at a summer show out in the broiling hot sun and you are entered in a very large class which must, of necessity, take the judge a long time to do, here is a little tip. For you, as the handler, there is no way out of it, but you could try to cast a shadow with your body to give your dog a little comfort while waiting for the judge. If it is a very large class, don't pose your dog until the judge is just two or three dogs away from yours. Your dog will be just a little less tired of it all when the judge gets to him, and these little things count quite a lot in hot competition.

I have advised you many times in this book to watch the good handlers in your breed. I have also advised you to know your breed well. Here is one very good reason why this is important. A novice watches a good handler show a dog. He sees the handler place his hand on the dog's rump, between the hipbones and the tail set. The handler makes sure the judge has seen him do this. The judge looks at the same spot on the other dogs in the class and gives the first prize to the handler of whom we're speaking. The novice, if he doesn't know why the handler acted as he did, mimics the handler when he shows his dog but with disastrous results. Why? The novice did not know he was pointing out a fault in his dog whereas the handler was pointing out a good spot on his dog. The Standard of perfection for the breed in question states that this breed should have a medium-high tail set. The smart handler noticed when he came into the ring that his dog had a very good tail set but the other dogs in the ring were faulty at this spot. Where the competition is keen, these things count quite a lot. The handler placed his hand on his dog's good spot, the judge saw it, recognized that the dog excelled here, looked at the other dogs, realized that they were faulty here, and gave the award to the handler. The novice, if he doesn't know his breed, does the same thing, but instead of pointing out his dog's good spot, he points out what may be his dog's main fault, a poor tail set. The same situation might exist regarding throat on a dog, or clean-cut shoulders, or good feet, or any number of spots where a dog excels; when pointed out, it may help the decision come your way. But unfortunate may be the results if you, not knowing, point out a dog's fault. It is best if you do not try to point out good or bad parts of your dog until you know very well what they are and how best to point them out, and until you are able to recognize as soon as you enter the ring whether or not it is to your advantage to point them out. When you feel you do know, please don't be obnoxious about it. If you cannot do it in a nice way, don't do it at all. I have been in the show ring between two excited handlers who decided to show the judge how good their dogs were. They got so intent on what they were doing, each trying to outdo the other, that the judge became annoyed. He said they were insulting his intelligence—that he could and would find the dog of his liking without any further help from the handlers. Because I realized what the handlers were attempting to do, I set my dog up, knew he was set up correctly, and never made another move. It gave the judge the impression that I was not worried, that my dog was there looking his very best, and that I was sure he, the judge, would find him to his liking. I didn't win that class, but I felt very good after the judge made his remark and I knew he was not talking to me. He preferred another dog to mine that day but he was certainly not criticizing my handling. Years later this judge remarked to me about this particular class and how annoyed he was watching those handlers "make fools of themselves." So if your dog is well posed and showing well don't fuss with him.

One very good piece of advice I'll pass on to you was given to me the first time I showed a dog. "Keep your nose clean, your eyes and ears open, and your mouth closed until you know what it is all about." Keep your eyes open and everywhere at once. You will see lots of things, some not intended for your eyes. The same with your ears. You'll hear ever so many things—some complete contradictions of what you are positive is right—someday you will be able to make up your own mind which is correct. When I say keep your mouth closed I don't mean you shouldn't ask questions or ask for help or advice. But don't repeat anything that has been told to you or anything you have seen. As a novice you may incorrectly repeat what you have been told, unintended, to be sure, and cause a lot of hard feeling between friends of long standing, or between persons who would have been friends had you not made enemies of them.

Two good examples of this: I said a friend's stud dog was not right for my bitch—a newcomer said I said the stud dog was not right—I lost a friend. Another example: An exhibitor was told by the judge that his dog "had been kept too close to the kitchen." When the story got around it changed, and the judge reportedly said, "The dog was nothing but a kitchen dog." What the judge meant was that the dog was too fat, had been kept too close to the kitchen and had received too many tidbits. What he reportedly said was "that the dog was no good." You wouldn't want to be responsible for such an erroneous statement, would you ? As a novice, not realizing the import of what you are saying or the true intent of the statement you are repeating, you might. As a novice don't pass judgment on people or their dogs around the shows. Invariably the person, or the best friend of the person, will overhear you and you will lose the opportunity to know that person before you have ever had a chance to know whether or not you would like to. When you feel you know the breed well, and you are willing to pass judgment on a dog to the owner's face, then go ahead, but do it in a gentlemanly way.

In asking advice or help on how to improve the trimming of your dog, for instance, don't tell Mr. Jones that Mr. Smith has just told you the completely reverse method. Just make a mental note of both methods and who made each suggestion. Later on you will decide for yourself who was right and who knows more about your breed. Keep your nose clean. You never heard that statement before? Well, it's just another way of saying, don't do anything you'll be sorry for later on. Don't pull any "fast ones," don't do anything you wouldn't want written up in your biography. You may become an important person in the so-called dog game someday—just be sure you will have nothing to hide. Remember you must live with yourself.

Try not to hurt the feelings of fellow exhibitors. Perhaps you don't realize that a simple phrase such as, "My, you're lucky," could hurt someone. The implication might be that the dog won by luck alone. There are other words that can hurt, and you'll soon learn them, so try to avoid using them.

Don't make a pest of yourself at club meetings. Every novice who enters the dog game attends a club meeting and gets up on his feet and makes a long speech. Usually it is about the Standard of the breed. "It's all wrong! The Standard states that the males should weigh 45 pounds yet the dog who won today was 48 pounds. Let's correct the Standard." Out of courtesy no one interrupts him, and he consumes very valuable time. Later he finds out that this very question was taken up in detail at the last meeting and it was decided that the Standard was correct, would stand unchanged, and little by little the club would try to educate judges to the fact that the desirable weight for the males of this breed is 45 pounds.

Or the novice will ask, at the club meeting, for someone to explain, right now, what the Standard means by "a long, lean head—with ample brain room." He probably has a dog who has been criticized as having a course head and he wants to be told exactly, down to the 1/100th of an inch, just how wide a dog's head may be and be within the Standard. Club meeting time is valuable and scarce. A much nicer thing for the novice to do, granted he is sincere about wanting to know more about the Standard, is to ask the club if they have a Standard's committee, or someone who knew the Standard well and who would be willing to explain parts of it to him. The club members will appreciate his desire to learn and all will be most willing to help him. In this way he has antagonized no one and made friends of a great many busy people who must leave immediately after the meeting to take care of other things.

In speaking of standards, there is one thing I want to point out. Don't be too anxious or too hasty to criticize the Standard. In most breeds this Standard of points, or Standard of perfection, has been worked out by students of the breed, men who have devoted a lifetime to the study of this one breed. The Standard is usually correct; it is the interpretation of it that is wrong; and time will usually take care of the wrong understanding of a Standard. If time does not take care of it—and these things are done slowly—public opinion will.

How can time or public opinion influence a Standard of a breed ? Let us take as an example of time influencing a Standard, the English Setter Standard of points. Under general appearance the relative weight given to symmetry, style, and movement (not running gear) is twelve points. That is a lot of points! Under symmetry the Standard states, "Symmetrical dogs will have level backs or be very slightly higher at the shoulders than at the hips." Thirty years ago almost all English Setters had level backs, but it was found that they tended to be sway-backed—a fault. So the breeders attempted to breed their English Setters with backs "very slightly higher at the shoulders than at the hips." In attempting to get the slight slope—and dogs with slight slopes to the back line began to win!—they got a back that was very sloped. Soon judges and breeders began to say that the English Setter was beginning to look more like an Irish Setter, whose Standard permitted much more slope to the top line. Too much slope was not good, and back the breeders went to some of the level-backed dogs for breeding. The pendulum swings, and has swung from the level-backed Setters to the too-sloped-back Setters and is now coming to rest on slightly sloped top lines which the Standard calls for. But all this takes time!

The drawings shown here clearly demonstrate the three different top lines we just talked about. All three of these drawings were copied from actual photographs of English Setter Champions!

How can public opinion influence a Standard? Let us take for our example, the Cocker Spaniel. The Standard calls for "speed and endurance"—"quick and merry." If a breeder of Cocker Spaniels disregards disposition—"merry"—and breeds only for looks, soon they will have a bad-tempered dog, and the public will not buy a bad-tempered dog. I once heard a new breeder say, "You can buy temperament in a pet shop—I'm breeding for looks." She found out she was wrong and now she, as well as breeders of all dogs, know they must consider temperament every bit as important as looks. The same thing is true regarding coat. The Cocker Spaniel Standard states, "flat or slightly waved, silky and very dense, with ample Setter-like feather." The Black Cocker Spaniel coat is, at the moment, so dense it is difficult to run a comb through it, and when the breed reaches the place where the public refuses to buy the puppies because of the denseness of coat and the difficulties in caring for it, the breeders will soon have to breed for a less dense coat or find no sale for their excess puppies. Public opinion does and will influence the interpretation of a Standard.

I think this little item, which has not been mentioned previously, belongs under the heading of fine points of showing. Don't get lost in the ring! I don't mean that you will lose your way—even a child can't very well do that in a show ring—but don't get so out of the way that the judge can't find you. This actually happened to someone I know. It was a fairly large class and the judge told the exhibitor to wait over in a certain corner of the ring. It was a dark day, rainy and cold, and the judging was being done under a tent. The exhibitor was showing a black dog and she was dressed in dark clothes. She took the judge very literally and went way, way over in the corner where she disappeared against the dark background of spectators. When the judge looked around the ring to make his final decision on which dogs he would place, our friend, the exhibitor, could not be seen. She should have moved out into the ring slightly and the judge's attention would have been called to her dog. Afterward the judge told me that her dog was one of the best in that class and he would probably have won but unfortunately he never saw the dog or the handler again until after the class was completed, the book marked, and the exhibitors leaving the ring. This exhibitor had to learn this lesson the hard way. Fortunately it was only a sanctioned match, but it could have been an important show. The judge spoke to the exhibitor after the show—there was nothing he could do after the class had been judged—and told her she had a good dog, that he was sorry she missed being placed. I don't think she will make this mistake again, do you? When a judge has completed the examination of the last dog in the class, be on your toes, be ready to re-pose your dog, or to move in if you have been asked to wait in a dim, far corner.

While this is not a fine point of handling, it is a suggestion— you might find helpful. Buy yourself a little notebook and keep your dog's complete show record in it. It is amazing how fast one can forget! On the top of the page write the dog's registered name and number. Next to it write his call name. You know, regardless of what the registered name is, you can call your dog any name you wish. Many a dog is called "Butch" whose registered name might sound something like "Handsome Harry of Sunset Hill." Under the name and the number write the sire, dam, breeder, and owner, and date of birth. Now skip a line or two and begin the show record. If you have taken the dog to a sanctioned match, write it down. Include the date of the match, which club ran the match, who judged your dog, and where your dog was placed. Do this for every match you attend. When you go to an all-breed show, do the same thing. List the date, name of show-giving club, the judge, and where he placed you. If you were fortunate enough to get any points, write them down. If you went Reserve Winners it might be a good idea to include the name of the dog or bitch who went Winners. Just because you did not win under a judge is no reason why you shouldn't try him again some time—particularly if you know that the one dog who beat yours on the previous occasion is now a Champion and out of the classes.

One thing this record will do is keep you straight on just how many points your dog has. You probably feel you could never forget something as important as how many points you win, but you might, and with this list you not only know how many points, you also know where and when and under whom you got them.

Carry the book with you to all the shows. Keep it with your show equipment so you won't forget it. It will come in handy when making out entries while at a show. "You'd be surprised how easy it is to forget the dog's number or date of birth when you are making your entries, particularly if you own more than one dog.

In the back of the book you might like to jot down a few little notes on judges; those you have shown under as well as those under whom you have not shown. Your record might read something like this: Mr. Jones: Told me he liked large dogs. Mrs. Smith: Can't stand light eyes. Mr. Black: Likes a good-moving one. Mrs. White: Very particular about hindquarters. As you go along and show your dog, you will know when and where you have the best chance, but in the beginning such notes may prove very helpful.

Here is something you can do if you want to use a tidbit to give your dog at the show after he has done a job particularly well or if you are showing a dog usually baited in the ring. Buy some liver—pork liver is the cheapest and the best—and cook it the night before you leave for the show. Allow it to dry. When all the moisture has dried off the outside, pack it in an empty glass jar with a screw top and place in the refrigerator until you are ready to leave. Dogs love it, but be careful, as it doesn't keep too well in warm weather. After it has been properly dried you can handle it with ease and you will not get yourself or your clothes messed up. While I've known a few persons who have had a pocket lined with plastic in which they carried the meat it isn't really necessary once it has been dried.
Several times in this book I have made references to the latch on the exercise pens at shows. The latch, or lock, will vary depending on which superintendent is supplying the pens, but regardless of the type, always check to see that you have securely fastened it whenever you use it. If you are going into the pen and remaining in there with your dog, and even if you have him on a lead and are the only one in the pen, still, as you enter the pen, fasten the latch. Remember that other people will expect the door to be fastened and someone may lift a small dog over the pen wall and turn the dog loose. A slight push on the door by the small dog will give him his freedom. At most shows there is no rule about the use of the pen as far as dogs being on or off leads is concerned. At the few shows I know of where special pens are set up for the use of "dogs on lead only" there is no door on the pen.

Don't let your dog stay too long in any exercise pen. If there is any one place at a show where a dog is exposed to germs or disease it is in the exercise pen. Watch your dog, and as soon as he has taken care of his duties there, remove him. Needless sniffing around in the pen will not do him any good. Of necessity these pens are rather small, and only a certain number of dogs can safely and adequately be taken care of within the confines at one time. Be considerate of the numerous others who want to use the pens. Incidentally, you will accomplish something worth while if you can possibly train your dog to use the exercise pen quickly—almost as soon as he enters. I have done this with one of my dogs, and I must say that this particular dog was always a joy to take to shows for this one reason. The moment he entered the pen he did all he had to do and came to the door of the pen and waited to be taken out. He never paid the slightest bit of attention to any other dogs in the pen and he was not too interested in staying in there. Don't allow your dog too much time to play in the pen. At shows where the pen has a sawdust cover in it a playful dog gets himself full of the sawdust that will have to be removed before the dog is shown.

This is as good a time as any to tell you just a little about obedience classes at shows. Somewhere in your neighborhood you will find a dog-training class, usually run by a branch of a show-giving club or by an obedience club. Yes, the obedience trial people have clubs of their own. At these classes the owner or handler is taught how to train his dog for obedience trials. The actual training is done at home. Every house pet can make good use of this training in his everyday life. The dog is taught to heel, which means to follow you on your left side close to your heel; to sit when you stop; to sit and stay on command; to down on command, and to down and stay on command; to come on command; and many other exercises which the dog can use daily. A well-trained obedience dog is a joy to take around with you, for he is trained to obey your commands. At the dog shows they have classes, called trials, to test the dog's ability. A premium list always tells you if such classes are held at that particular show. All breeds may compete, and a dog may be shown in obedience and regular classes on the same day. There are quite a few rules governing these trials and also your deportment while in the obedience ring. If you are interested in training your dog to compete in obedience trials, I suggest you contact a training club in your area and attend its classes, which are usually held once a week. The leader or trainer will acquaint you with the rules and the steps you take to acquire an obedience title. There are several titles; the first is the addition of the letters "CD." to your dog's registered name. CD. stands for Companion Dog and that is just what your dog is when he has completed the first phase of his obedience training. The second title is C.D.X., which means Companion Dog Excellent—self-explanatory. The third title a dog may acquire is U.D., meaning Utility Dog, a dog who is useful; next comes U.D.T., standing for Utility Dog Tracking, a useful dog on tracking; next and final and highest of the obedience titles is T.T., Tracking Test.
There are a great many books written about obedience training and the people in obedience work are very enthusiastic indeed. You will have fun and be "in the thick of it" very shortly after you locate the nearest training club.

There is another activity in dogs which you may not know about—the Children's Handling Class. In this class children between the ages of ten and sixteen compete as the best handler. The dog's quality does not count, only the ability of the child to handle the dog in the ring to advantage. This class is always judged by a licensed professional handler, and this group, the handlers, are not only interested in the work but help in many ways to make the class a worthy one. The handler is never paid to judge the class although it frequently takes him from other work for which he is paid.

Aside from getting a ribbon and perhaps a trophy or some candy, the child winning a Children's Handling Class at certain shows receives a certificate which entitles him to enter this class at Madison Square Garden, the Westminster Kennel Club show in New York City. The dogs entered in the breeds must have won a blue ribbon before entering at Westminster, and the children must have won a first in the class before they may enter at the Garden. By the time a really interested child has shown in the Children's Handling Classes for a few years he is quite competent and can and does compete against the best in the game. Many children under sixteen have shown a dog completely through to its championship unaided by adults. Watch these children at any show; you will be surprised how really good some of them are. Besides making good handlers of the children, it teaches them sportsmanship and a great deal about dogs and dog shows. These children are the future of the dog game, they will become the breeders, exhibitors, and judges of the future. Indeed at certain shows there are also junior judging competitions, the winners going to the International Kennel Club show in Chicago for the finals. Your child will enjoy dogs and enjoy accompanying you to dog shows ever so much more if you can interest him in the Children's Handling Class.

Here is a wonderful example of a good handler. These photographs were taken during the judging of a Children's Handling Class. Note how well set up the dog is in both pictures; note the child is paying attention at all times to her dog, not the ringside; note when the judge is in the rear how she is holding the dog's head to keep him calm and also from turning around; note that she has even removed the lead which would be done with this breed in breed competition.

Now just a few words about field trials. I am not going into detail, as there have been books, many books, written by truly great authorities on the subject. If you own any of the sporting breeds, Basset Hounds, Beagles, or Dachshunds, and you wish to run them at field trials run under the American Kennel Club rules, I suggest you contact your breed club. They will advise you how and where and who to get in touch with. If you wish to run your dog at American Field trials, write to that organization and ask for the names and addresses of people in your neighborhood who are currently running dogs, or contact one or more of the sportsmen's clubs in your section of the country. Under American Kennel Club rules a dog becomes a field trial champion of record when he has won a certain number of points under a certain number of judges. There are several different stakes run at each trial; there are sanctioned field trials with no championship points awarded and there are licensed and member-club trials at which championship points may be awarded. The points are based on the number of dogs actually running in each stake. As I said before, I won't go into detail —it would take a book just to write the rules to be followed and the procedure for the running of the several different breeds. But I will say this: Field trials and running your dog in them, or even just hunting over a good dog, is a joy not to be equaled by many other sports. And don't let anyone tell you a show dog won't hunt or can't hunt. He certainly will and I personally know a great many sportsmen who are now hunting over dogs which they or their wives have shown. Some are even bench champions! I know one man who has a dog that is a bench champion, has an obedience title or two, and has or is about to get his field-trial championship! This dog is also his house pet! Look into this wonderful sport. I'm sure you'll enjoy it!

This is a typical group of dog show enthusiasts during the lunch hour at an outdoor show. Each family has brought along their own picnic basket — they find a suitable spot and enjoy lunch together. This is one of those rare moments at a show when everyone has time to compare notes on raising puppies, the latest developments in canine medicine, show careers and future shows.  
Getting back to showing dogs, I can't stress enough the importance of good sportsmanship. Remember that you've gone into the sport as a hobby—for fun! You will have more fun and you will have so many more friends and be so much more welcome if you are a. good sport that for these reasons alone it would be worth your while. The notoriously poor loser is very rarely invited to join the gang at supper at someone's home, or does he often hear these words, "Let's all jump in the car and go somewhere for dinner." The poor sport is not often seen in such happy and interested groups as the folks having a picnic lunch at a dog show in the accompanying photograph.

Even if your heart is breaking for being turned down, go up to the winner and congratulate him and let him be convinced you really mean it. It takes only a minute, but it makes the winner feel good and leaves a pleasant aftertaste. If you've lost, and you must gripe about it, why not wait until you get home? Your husband or wife, or the four walls in your living room, will not have as poor an opinion of you as your fellow exhibitors will have if you really let go. And when you really know dogs you'll find you have a lot less to gripe about. After you have been invited to judge, and you find out what the poor judge goes through trying to decide between many good dogs, you'll have even less to gripe about. So spend some time watching the judging, and after you have mastered your own breed, and think you understand it and know it thoroughly, learn about some of the other breeds. Then learn to recognize a good one of any breed.

Horse racing is referred to as the Sport of Kings. Well, I think we could refer to dogs and dog shows as the Sport of the Entire American Family. Husbands and wives can share an equal enthusiasm in this hobby, and so can Junior and his little sister. Children love to help raise the puppies, and they love entering in the Children's Handling Class. Go to it, folks, and have a really good doggy time!

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