The Big Moment – Judging In The Ring

Do not talk to the judge, or attempt to talk to him, while you are waiting for the class to begin. Even if you have met the judge socially this is no time for a cozy chat. Don't strike up a conversation with the steward or with anyone sitting on the ringside—be ready to start.

While waiting in the ring for the class to begin it is a good idea not to let your dog get in a sloppy position. Frequently a judge's eye will roam over the waiting entries, and it is to your dog's advantage if he looks well at this moment. However, it is not necessary that your dog be in a show pose, unless the judge is actually making an attempt to judge the dogs while he is waiting.
This is important! I don't care which of the in breeds you may be showing, never hold your show lead with two hands! The lead should always be held completely in the left hand, either looped, crumpled up, or folded. There is nothing in showing a dog that points out inexperience so quickly and looks less graceful in the ring than a lead stretched between the left hand and the right hand in front of the handler's body. It looks as though the handler expected the dog to run away and he was prepared to "hold on with both hands"—a bad impression to give. Actually, the right hand is not doing a thing except holding on to the end of the lead, and with the lead in this poor grasp the handler's arms are in an ungraceful position; he does not have complete freedom of wrist movement without which he cannot as easily control the direction in which the dog is traveling nor the proper gait of the dog.

In this photograph the lead is held incorrectly. Note both hands are used to hold the lead, one actually doing nothing. Compare with the correct hold as shown in the next photograph.

Here the lead is held in one hand leaving the other free if it is needed. This is the correct way to hold a lead. See next photograph.

The extra or unneeded position of the lead is crumpled inside the hand (one fold may be wrapped around the hand or around one finger). Most of the pressure or pull should be on the fatty side of the hand near the third knuckle of the small finger

The correct way is very simple; try it. Put the lead on your dog. Hold your left arm at right angle to your body and ball up in your left hand all the excess lead necessary to make the lead taut between the dog and your hand. I cannot tell you how much lead will be exposed, as it will depend on the height of your breed. It will be longer for a small dog, shorter for a tall dog. For the rest of this demonstration I will assume that your dog has been properly lead-broken, which certainly he should have been long, long before you take him to his first show. Now you gait your dog. First, let us suppose he is going along next to you at the proper speed, in the proper direction, and with the proper head carriage, and that the lead is crumpled up in your left hand as directed. To relax the tension on the lead you need only to lower the left arm and immediately your dog is gaiting "on a loose lead," a request you will hear frequently in the show ring. More and more judges insist on seeing the dogs "gait on a loose lead, please."

This is a photograph of Charles Palmer, when he was a top professional handler, showing his dog in actual competition. Notice the lead held completely in one hand. The dog is going along in a business-like manner but still happy (you can see the wagging tail!). If the dog should drop his head, the handler need only raise his hand a bit to remind the dog to get his head up. When the dog goes along with his head held up, the handler lowers his hand and the dog is automatically "on a loose lead."
Now suppose your dog drops his lead or lags behind. All that is needed are a few short, quick tugs on the lead, all done with the left arm, and he will soon go along at the proper speed or raise his head. If the dog veers to the left, a quick pull will bring him back in line. If he gets too close to you, an outward jerk on the lead will set him straight. I mentioned short, quick tugs on the lead. Never use a pulling motion, always the short, quick, jerking motion. The dog will respond much more readily.

Now what to do with that useless right arm. Just forget it entirely. If you do not think about it, your arm will automatically assume a graceful position as you run or walk with the dog. It will also be free to give the dog a little pat on the shoulder as you make a turn at the end of the ring should he require it.

Back once again to the crumpled-up lead in the left hand. Should you feel it desirable that you travel a slightly greater distance from your dog after you have started to gait him, all you need to do is relax the fingers of the left hand and the lead will pull itself out a little bit at a time. To stop its pulling-out action, you just tighten your grip on the lead. When you are gaiting the dog, if he is too far from you and you want to shorten the lead without changing the dog's gait, you simply take up a hitch or two by winding the lead around the fingers or by a few simple twists of the wrist. It is just that simple and quick.

This proper holding of the lead is one of the easiest things to learn, but until it is pointed out to you, you may not realize that the best handlers are doing it this way. Watch any good handler show a dog and you will see what I mean.

We have talked quite a good deal so far in this book about gait; do this when you gait your dog, see where the judge gaits the dogs, do that when gaiting, and so on. Just what is gait and why do you gait your dog in the show ring ? When a judge is asked to choose the best dog in the ring, he looks at them standing still to see where they excel and where they could be improved. But if he made his decision on just this basis, it is conceivable that the dog he chose would be a cripple. In the show ring you are always striving for perfection, and certainly even a slightly crippled dog is not a perfect dog. So the judge asks that each handler gait, or "move," his dog, and he watches closely to be sure that the dog is free from defects, which now show up. The judge's opinion is then based on both standing-still and moving dogs.

A dog who is cow-hocked may be able to stand still and not show the fault too much, but when he "moves" away from the judge, it shows up at once. It is the same with a poor front. If the dog is "out at elbow," it will show up when he gaits. The judge can also tell at a glance if the dog is made correctly in the shoulders, or any number of other places, by seeing him gait.

Along with looking for faults the judge is also looking for good points when he asks to see a dog gait. It is now that carriage, elegance, symmetry, and style show up. These attributes count heavily when the judge makes his decision, as indeed they should. The Standard of almost every breed gives them a high point rating.

Now that you know why you are asked to gait your dog you must realize that the better your dog gaits, the better opinion the judge will have of him. The judge will want to see the dog gait around in a circle so he can see him from the side—see the style and flash of the dog and then he will want to see the dog go away from him and come toward him—in a straight line. This is when he will be checking for soundness. It is important that the handler not be forced to tug and pull on the show lead, for if he does, he might possibly cause the dog to throw an elbow or a hock in such a fashion as to make the judge think the dog is faulty. Remember the judge's time in the ring is limited, and he cannot take all day to make a decision. Frequently the first impression he gets will be the only one he has time for. Gaiting is so important that it will pay you to learn to do it right.

Small mincing steps look awkward and are rarely of the correct speed for any breed.
 
Normal walking steps, a trot or a run, will give you and your dog a far better gait than tiny "get-nowhere" steps.

Aside from the incorrect holding of the lead, as pointed out earlier, the biggest mistake the novice makes is in gaiting his dog too slowly. The mincing steps of the novice handler are a dead giveaway. Your dog cannot gait properly if you do not move fast enough yourself to give him the opportunity to reach out and take normal strides, and there is nothing more awkward than a grown man or woman taking little, bitty steps, usually on tiptoe. Even if you are showing a small toy, you should be able to walk at a normal walk. With the larger breeds it may be necessary for you to move at a fast walk or trot, or even a run.

As you gain more experience, and if you will follow this advice—watch the good handlers—you will soon learn what is correct and you will acquire the proper gait for your dog. But when you first start, please avoid the mistake of going too slowly and with too small steps.

You are in the ring, and the one dog the class has been waiting for has finally arrived. The judge, with perhaps a circular motion of his arm and a nod to the exhibitors, or an "O.K., let's go," makes it known that he is ready to judge the class. Unless otherwise told you will be expected to take your dog, along with the others, in as large a circle as the ring will permit, moving in a counter-clockwise direction. The dog should be on your left side with the lead in your left hand, your left hand only. Usually the judge stands in the center of the ring so that he can see each of the dogs as they go around. If, however, the judge stands slightly to one side or remains in one corner of the ring, unless he tells you to do otherwise you should continue to show as stated, go around in a circle with the dog on your left side. Continue in this fashion until the judge tells you or motions you to stop. Some judges have you go around only once or twice but there is no definite number of times you will be expected to circle the ring.

As far as the speed with which you make this circle is concerned, be governed mostly by your dog's best gait. The dog should be moving at a brisk or animated trot. Be sure he doesn't pace, and try to keep him from going into a gallop. If he has been properly lead broken, with showing in mind, he will be going around the ring with an easy but lively step, his head held high. Remember the judge wants a pleasing picture. Try to have your dog look the proud aristocrat he is. The dog should be gaiting on a loose lead and you should not have to choke him with the lead to keep his head up. Try not to lag, and if you find yourself getting too close to the dog in front of you, slow down a bit. If, in slowing down, you feel you will throw your dog off his best gait, it would be better to stop for a moment, in a corner, and let the dog in front of you get ahead or, better still, if it is possible make a slightly larger circle. This will give you more ground to cover and will keep your dog gaiting at his best speed. Unless the judge or the handler asks you to pass the slower dog, it is not quite cricket to do so.
If you are showing a dog whose tail should be wagging and held rather high, it will encourage him to do so if you talk to him or cluck to him as you are going around. If, however, you are showing a breed whose tail should be dropped when gaiting, it is best not to speak to him.

Be on the lookout for joints in the matting or carpeting at an indoor show which might trip you. Be on the lookout also for numbers that are placed in the ring designating First, Second, Third, and Fourth placing. These are very easy to trip over and always seem to be in your way. At outdoor shows watch for holes, roots, and rough terrain.

Glance quickly and occasionally to see what the judge is looking at. If you see that he is looking at your dog, be sure you keep going. Don't slow down until the judge's eye has left your dog —even though you have been around so many times you think you are going to drop. You can rest later. You probably will wish that you had been born with many pairs of eyes: one pair to keep on your dog, one on the dog in front of you, one on the ground, and one on the judge. But don't despair. You will see all these things at once rather automatically, once you have done it a few times.

When the judge motions with his hand, or speaks to you or one of the other exhibitors, telling you to stop and line up in front of him, or over there, or here, do so with the attitude that you know what you are doing and where you are going. If you didn't hear the judge's orders, glance to see in which direction the others are going and follow them. Don't stand in the middle of the ring waiting for more definite instructions as, chances are, there will be none.

If yours is the first dog stopped, go slightly to the side of the ring and pose your dog, unless the judge gives other instructions. If you are alone in the class, the judge may ask you to pose your dog in the center of the ring. In the ring always do as the judge tells you to do, whether or not it is standard procedure. If yours is not the first dog stopped, line up in the order in which you went around the ring, and pose your dog. If yours is the first dog, attempt to get him in a good show position as quickly as possible, since the judge's eye will probably be on your dog. If yours isn't the first dog in line, you will have a little more time to get him in what you consider his best show position.

Some judges will go immediately to the first dog in line and start to examine him. However, there are a great many judges who will stand in the center of the ring while the dogs are lining up and watch as the handlers pose the dogs. The judge may just glance up and down the line or he may walk up and down several times, looking from dog to dog. If the judge does this, he is not looking for fine points but trying to get the general over-all picture of the dog or dogs. Have yours looking his best as soon as you can.
In your breed, if the good handlers remove the lead when posing, now is the time to take the lead off your dog. Don't throw it carelessly to one side, it may become entangled with another lead, or, at an outdoor show, be hard to find in the grass. Place it carefully close by. If you are showing a breed usually baited in the ring, you will leave the lead on and stand in front of your dog. If he has been correctly trained, he will stand still with his head raised, looking at you, or, I should say, at the liver, meat, or playtoy in your hand.

Let us hope that when the judge comes to your dog for a close examination he will approach him slowly or at least carefully. If not, forgive him, for at this time he has a lot on his mind; he is making all sorts of mental notes about the dogs he is judging. Your dog should have been prepared in advance of the show for the approach of a stranger. Sanctioned matches are a big help in this direction and your good friends will understand if you ask them to approach the dog in your living room some evening while you are doing some training in show posing.

The judge will usually examine the head first, looking at skull, ears and ear placement, eyes, teeth, expression. If yours is a breed whose ears should be erect, try very hard to have them erect when the judge approaches him. If yours is a breed whose ears should be low-hung, be calm and try to have your dog's ears relaxed. Some judges will look for themselves, but more and more frequently they are asking the handlers to show the dog's mouth. This keeps the judge's hands from coming in contact with germs in the dog's mouth and spreading them from one dog to another. He may ask, "Let me see his mouth," but he really means his teeth, his bite. He is not interested, as some people still believe, in the roof of the mouth (there are exceptions such as Chow Chows), but in the dog's teeth and how and where they meet. Don't try to conceal anything—show the dog's bite as well as you can. Your dog may need a bit of special training before he will let you or anyone else touch him around the mouth without dancing all around. The well-trained dog will stand perfectly still while his mouth is being examined.

If the judge places both his hands on your dog's head, it is best if you remove your hand from the dog's head. Be alert, however, and ready to grab the dog should he try to get away from the judge. Many dogs go along perfectly all right until this time, when they suddenly realize they are being touched by a stranger. I said, "grab the dog." Perhaps "clasp him firmly" would be a better expression. Sometimes a really sudden grab, even from the dog's owner, will frighten the dog even more. Soothe your dog as best you can; the judge will realize he is frightened and give you the time; then, as calmly as possible, re-pose your dog.
If when the judge approaches your dog he throws his key ring, a pack of cigarettes, or matches, or any other object to attract your dog's attention, don't be in the way. Try to have your dog see the object, or hear it, and react to its being thrown. That is what the judge wants to see—the dog's reaction, his expression. If he doesn't react—throw some small object of your own. If you are in a breed where this practice is customary, you will never go into the ring without carrying with you something which you can toss or hold in front of your dog to get his attention.

It is possible that as the judge approaches he will be more interested in the dog's front and will examine that before he looks at the head. Try very hard to have the front in the correct position for your breed before the judge approaches. By "front" I mean the dog's two front legs. If the two front legs are in the very best possible position before the judge approaches you, you will have time to concentrate on other things which may need your attention. Just check with a quick glance to see that the dog has not shifted one or the other leg without your knowing it, and, as the judge approaches, be ready to turn the entire front end of your dog over to him if he wishes it.

The setting up of a dog's front depends a great deal on the breed and a great deal on the dog's front—how good it is or how bad it is. First let us take up the breed differences. In small, straight-legged breeds, such as most of the Terriers, you will find the good handlers lifting the dog's front by using the collar and letting the front drop naturally. In large, straight-legged breeds, because the weight involved is so great, this natural dropping is difficult, and usually each leg is placed in the proper position. In breeds where the front legs are not perfectly straight, such as the Basset Hound and the Bulldog, the best idea, particularly in the beginning, is to place the legs in the proper position. The best advice in this respect is, once again, watch the good handlers in your breed. None of this placing of fronts will be necessary if the dog, of his own accord, places his feet in exactly the spot you want them to be in. You can help your dog do this by leading him up to the spot slowly and carefully.

These two photographs were taken when the author was judging English Setters at Morris and Essex. Notice in the first picture how the handlers, Charles Palmer and Harold Correll, are out of the way of the judge and also give themselves an opportunity to reset the rear if necessary. Notice in the second picture, when the judge looks at the rear, the handler is in front holding the dog's head.

Now let us talk for a moment about how good or how bad your dog's front is and how it concerns placing a front. If you have a dog with a very good front, you want the judge to see it. With a medium-sized dog it is possible to drop the front as the Terrier people do, except do not use the collar to lift the weight of the dog. Place one hand under the brisket of the dog, the other hand holding the dog's head, and lift the weight of the front part of the dog off the ground, then let it drop. The front will come down right! A judge loves to see a front dropped as I have described, but only if it is a good front. If it is not good, it might come down all wrong, and the judge would see what you are trying to keep him from seeing—a bad front. If the dog has a good front, try walking him up to the exact spot you want him in, moving slowly so that you can stop just where you want to be. Perhaps you will only have to move one leg, and that is better than having to move both legs when you have so many other things to do. Check frequently while reading this section on the photographs showing fronts and the placing of fronts.

In this photograph the dog is being dropped in front. The legs are coming down correctly and will probably drop well enough. The dog's left foot (on our right) may possibly be turned slightly inward, in which case she can be redropped. Notice one hand lifting weight under brisket and the other holding the muzzle. When holding the muzzle or head and dropping the front, have the head pointing straight ahead and the front is more apt to drop correctly.

In placing a front, first one leg and then the other, you will find it is almost impossible to do if you attempt to touch the feet and place them. You must grasp the dog's elbow and place the leg by directing the foot to the proper spot. Hold on to the dog's head or his lead with one hand and place one leg at a time with the other. You may stand in front of the dog or on the side when placing the front, but don't take both hands off the dog's head while you are doing it. One hand on the dog's head, or his lead, will keep him from feeling uncontrolled and perhaps from deciding to leave the spot.

If the judge has first examined the head and then directs his attention to the front, try to check to see if the front is still as you left it when the judge approached you. Often when a judge is examining the head he will throw the dog slightly off balance and the dog will move one leg. If so, and you can fix it without interfering with the judge, correct it.

Different judges have different ways of examining a dog's front. Some will just look it over from a distance, depending on the dog's gait to show any faults. Some judges will just press on the shoulders and sway the dog from side to side, watching the legs while doing so. Others will examine the front very carefully, picking up first one leg and then the other. They probably will be very interested in watching each leg drop back to its position naturally. Do not interfere. If the leg comes down in what you consider a bad position, do nothing until the judge is finished. Some of these judges will be careful to leave the dog in a good position but some, after the examination, will leave the dog in any position he happens to be in. Check as soon as possible after the judge leaves the front, and if all is not as it should be—correct it.

Never try to pose or reset a front by holding the foot. Instead firmly grasp the elbow and direct the foot to the correct spot. You can also better control a slight toe-in or toe-out by grasping the elbow and slightly turning the leg in the right direction before the foot touches the ground.

It would be difficult even for a novice handler to pose a dog as badly as either of these two photographs show. However, after you have set the dog up in front correctly, or dropped him correctly, if he is off balance it is possible for him to step into one or the other of these positions. Check frequently to be sure he is standing as you want him to be.

Some judges examine the dog's shoulders rather carefully, others depend on seeing the shoulders in action when the dog is gaiting. If your judge pays attention to shoulders, either from the front of the dog or from the side, just be careful not to get in his way. The same is true if and when he checks on the "middle piece"—the ribs, brisket, back, loin. While the judge is examining the shoulders or "middle piece," you could be holding the dog's head to be sure he didn't turn around and at the same time you could stretch it ever so slightly or turn it ever so slightly to make his neck fit into the shoulders as well as possible. By now you should be prepared for the judge's examination of the rear.

While the judge was going over the front of the dog, you should have had ample time to set up the rear if it was necessary. If the dog has not moved, you will not have to touch it again. As the judge finishes looking over the body, just check once more to see that he has not moved and that the two back legs are set as well as you can possibly have them.
For almost every breed the two back legs will be posed the same. The main exception is for the German Shepherd Dog, and I advise you who are interested in this breed to study the other exhibitors and handlers in that breed. In other breeds the two back legs are spread apart so that the bone that goes from the hock joint to the back foot—the hock—is perfectly perpendicular whether viewed from the side or from the rear. This shows very well in the accompanying photographs of a well-

The dog here is being dropped in front. Notice the weight of the dog being held under the brisket while the head is held with the other hand. The legs are coming down too close together. See result in next picture.

The handler looks down and sees that the feet are too close together. In the following two photographs the dog is being dropped correctly.

Notice how the legs are coming down parallel. This usually means that the front will be correctly dropped.

Here the front has dropped correctly. Now the handler can devote his time to setting up the rear.

In the first photograph the hind legs are not back far enough, in the second they are back too far. The third picture shows the hind legs as they should be.

If your dog is cow-hocked (knock-kneed in rear legs), setting up the rear will not be too easy, but lots of practice will show you how best to set it up so the fault is concealed as much as possible. I hope you start out with a dog who does not have this fault, for although it is a common fault, it is one of the easiest for the judge to find. Now, it is quite possible that your dog will have a good rear, but as a result of being in a strange place he will tend to appear cow-hocked. A frightened dog will often look cow-hocked. If this happens to your dog, I can only recommend that you take him around with you as much as possible until he begins to lose his fear of shows and judges and really enjoys them.
If you have a dog with a really good rear, it is possible that you will never have to set him up—he will set himself up. Good! You cannot improve on that. Just be sure he does not place his hind legs in such a spot that his body is turned. If so, just move them and let the dog readjust himself.

Here are two photographs showing the right and wrong methods of "setting up" a rear. Most dogs will object and squirm about if the foot or lower part of the leg is touched. It is far better to direct the foot to the correct spot by grasping the leg firmly at the stifle joint as shown in the 2nd photograph.

There are many ways of moving or of setting up a rear. Watch a few of the handlers. Some will lift the dog by the tail; some will place a hand under the dog between the two hind legs; some will place their arm under the loin of the dog; and still others will place each leg by grasping the hock joint and directing the foot to the correct spot. Here again, as in lifting the dog for dropping the front, size and weight of the dog will make a difference. Yes, in a very small dog, such as some of the small Terriers, you can lift the dog by his tail just long enough to take his weight off his back legs and then drop the rear in the correct spot. But I wouldn't advise trying it with a larger dog. Be governed quite a bit by the weight of your breed. A large breed will be uncomfortable if all the weight of his rear is held in one hand even for a short time. A male of a large breed will not enjoy being lifted with one arm under his loin. Find the way which is easiest for you and is most commonly practiced by the good handlers in your breed.

In this photograph the dog's hind legs are too far apart.

Here the hind legs are too close together.

In this photograph you will note that the dog's left hock appears to turn in. This is

In this photograph the dog's rear is well set up. known as "how-hocked".

While the judge is looking over the hindquarter you should be up around the head of your dog, holding it or at least watching to see that the dog does not turn around. If yours is a breed usually baited in the ring, do so now. The dog will stand much better if he sees you or you hold him while the judge makes his examination. Also, you might direct the head at this time to give the dog his best appearance in neck and shoulder. In some breeds the Standard calls for an arched neck. Experiment with your dog to find out just how to show this good point to your best advantage. When the judge looks up, you want him to see the dog in his best pose.

If you are careless about checking your dog after you think he is posed, he may move and the judge might see him looking as he does in the first photograph instead of as he CAN look in the second photograph.

Here is an interesting series of photographs taken during the actual judging of Specials Only Class, English Setters, at an important show. The author is on the right showing her "International Champion Silvermine Wagabond." In the first photograph the dog is fairly well set up but she realizes that he head is not at the best possible angle nor is the grip quite right. In the second picture she is changing the hold on the head. In the third, she feels the dog is standing as well as she can pose him. There was only a slight improvement but important in close competition. In the fourth picture the judge is going over the dog. This series of pictures points out several things I have advised you to do or not to do in the text. For better control don't kneel on the ground and you will be able to move about easier, faster and more gracefully. When the judge is looking at your dog's front, you go to the rear, check to see that it is as well posed as possible. Notice in these photographs that a well trained dog will not squirm about when waiting for the judge and will stand still for the judge to go over him.

When the judge completes his examination of the hindquarters, you may expect one of two things. Either he will go off to examine the next dog or he will continue to go over yours. He may stand off and look at your dog for an "all-over" picture. Try to give him the best picture of your dog that you can. If your breed has the tail usually held, hold it now in the proper position. Glance occasionally to see if the judge is still looking at your dog, but do not stare at him. So many novices think they can wish the judge into putting their dog up by staring at him. If it does anything at all, it will make him a bit angry. A quick glance should tell you what you want to know and that is, is he still looking at my dog and where is he going next. As long as the judge looks at your dog, keep him in the show pose. If he goes on to another dog, you can relax a bit, but keep the dog posed, as he may look at your dog again for a comparison with the next dog in line. Some judges tell you as they leave the examination of your dog to let the dog relax. If the judge tells you this, do as he says, let the dog relax. If the lead has been removed, put it on. I said let the dog relax, but don't let him "raise Ned" with another dog and do not let him curl up for a little nap. The judge will be with you shortly and you want to be ready. How long you will have to wait will depend on the size of the class.



Many hounds and terriers are posed with the tail held erect. The touch of a finger is usually enough to hold the tail upright and it looks much better than grasping the entire tail.

This picture was taken during the actual judging of a very large Open Dog Class, English Setters, at Morris and Essex. Notice the first few handlers are busy setting their dogs up for the judge to go over. The last few hurdlers — knowing it will be a long time before the judge gets all the way down the line to them — are not tiring their dogs out by keeping them posed but still have them under control and looking well. They will keep a close watch on the progress of the judge and will have the dogs posed when he reaches them.

If the class is rather large, check once in a while to see how the judge is progressing. As you see him go over the last dog, re-pose your dog. Most judges, after the examination of all the dogs in the class, will stand off for another look at the dogs to refresh his memory as to which ones he liked and which ones he did not. After this look, be prepared to gait your dog. If the lead has been removed again, as soon as the judge stops looking put it on and be ready to gait.

A great deal of what we have just been going over will not apply to the showing of the toy breeds. Some are posed, yes, but you will find the majority of the good ones shown au naturel on the end of a lead. So long as the dog is standing in a good pose, let him alone. If not, move him slightly and let him repose himself. Almost all of the toy judges will have you pose your dog for them on a table, otherwise they would have broken backs at the end of the day. If it is a large class, the judge may call you up to the table one at a time; if the class is a small one, perhaps all the dogs in the class will be on the table at one time.

Notice how much belter the neck looks on the dog in the first photograph. The lead is well forward underneath as well as on top and it does not tend to cut in half the lovely long-necked appearance. In the second photograph the skin and hair are bunched up. Besides looking sloppy it tends to make the neck appear shorter and, incidentally, offers the handler less control of the dog.

If many dogs are on the table at once, all I will say is that the end of the table is the easiest to get around, but since there are only two ends, some of the exhibitors will have to take the middle spots. Try to get on the end, but if it falls your lot to take a center spot, do so gracefully. Most of the toy judges will pick your dog up in their hands to estimate the weight, to feel the coat, to study the expression. Try to have your dog accustomed to being handled by strangers.

We have discussed the individual examination of your dog, now let us take up the individual gaiting of your dog. The judge will ask each exhibitor to gait his dog alone. When you came into the ring you went around in a circle and the judge was looking for general all-over appearance, now he will be checking for soundness. The judge will probably stand in one certain spot and have all the dogs, one by one, start their gait from this particular spot. If he has definite instructions, or instructions contrary to the following, he will give them to you as you approach him. If there are no instructions, you will gait your dog in as straight a line as possible away from the judge and then back to him. Look at the six drawings. Number One is the path you will follow now. For the sake of these drawings we assume the judge to be standing in the lower right-hand corner of the ring and in the same spot for each path, (except for path Five and the circle and for the circle he could be standing any place), but if he is on the opposite side of the ring, you just do the same thing but your starting point will be immediately in front of the judge. Remember, if the judge wishes you to take any path except Number One, he will tell you.
Do you recall our earlier discussion regarding gait? The reason the judge wants to see the dog gait? How the dog should go and how you yourself should go? Now is the time to put those words into practice. Try to have your dog going along at a brisk, animated, but steady trot, and, if possible, don't let him break his gait for a look at another dog, shake, sneeze, or any of the other things he may decide to do at this time. Before you start to gait, check the lead to see that it is on properly and not, for instance, caught on one ear, or, as has happened, in the dog's mouth.

Let's look again at the drawings of the six paths. If the judge wishes you to take any but Number One he will let you know, but if he does not tell you by word of mouth he may motion with his hand, assuming that you know what he wants you to do. It will be one of these paths, and if you are familiar with them you will have no trouble deciding which one he is motioning for you to take. In a few breeds the judge may ask you to go in a circle for the individual gait. If he asks you to, of course you will do so.

If following the pattern in drawings Number One and Two there is not much to worry about except to keep the dog in his best gait in as straight a line as possible with no interference. In following drawings Number Three, Four, or Five, remember that when your dog is traveling broadside, or sidewise, to the judge, the judge will again be checking on general appearance. Keep him going and looking his best, head up and alert.

Remember what I told you about the lead being held in one hand ? Now is the time you will be glad you learned to hold it this way. When you are following path Number Three, between points B and C, be sure to have the dog between you and the judge. In following path Number Four, between points B and C, have the dog between you and the judge, and then when you make the turn and you are between points C and D, you still want the dog to be between you and the judge. Just change the lead from your left hand to your right hand and the dog will be in the right place. The same is true of path Number Five— whenever your dog is sidewise to the judge, have him between you and the judge no matter how many times you change the lead from one side to the other. Watch the experienced handlers make this quick change. It's easy; practice it a few times. Incidentally, path Number Five is most apt to be called for in group judging or in exceptionally large rings.

When you have completed the individual gaiting of your dog, unless you have definite instructions from the judge, go back to the spot where you originally posed your dog, re-pose him, and be prepared for another individual examination. Some judges will know exactly what dogs they are going to place as soon as the individual gaiting has been completed, but others will want another look.

When the judge takes this other look, it is possible that he will ask for changes in the places where the dogs are posed: he may have several dogs change places; he may ask that all the dogs face another direction; that all dogs be posed in the center of the ring; or he may take two or more dogs off to a corner and spend extra time on them. However, whatever happens at this time will be entirely up to the judge and he will let you know just what he wants. Occasionally, in very large classes, as you complete the individual gaiting of your dog, the judge will ask you to go to the opposite side of the ring from the side you were on; he may be dividing the class in two parts, half on one side of the ring and half on the other side. If there are no special directions, as I said before, return to the same spot you were in before, and pose your dog. If the judge walks up and down the ring looking at the dogs, just be sure you have your dog ready for this second examination. If all the dogs are facing the center of the ring and the judge is around back looking at hindquarters, check to see that your dog's rear is posed correctly. If not, fix it. When the judge comes around front and looks at all fronts, see that your dog's front and his head angle are as good as you can possibly have them.
Don't get in the judge's way. Make it as easy as possible for the judge to see your dog, I want to emphasize this point. If you watch the top handlers carefully, you will notice that they never—and I mean never—stand between the judge and their dog. They may move back and forth a dozen or more times, but let the judge's eye, regardless of where he is standing, wander to their dog, he will see the dog and not the handler's body. This takes a bit of practice as you are so intent on having your dog in the proper pose, showing nicely, that it is sometimes difficult to remember that the judge is walking around. Follow the technique I described earlier—quick glances to see where the judge is and in what direction he is going. Do not stare at the judge, for if your dog moved you would not be aware of it. Quick glances keep you posted on the judge and the dog. Whether gaiting your dog or posing him, never be between your dog and the judge. On this second posing of your dog be careful not to get so close to the dog next to yours that you cannot move from one side of your dog to the other quickly and gracefully while keeping out of the judge's view of your dog. If the judge asks you to bring your dog up next to another dog—or has another dog brought up next to yours—keep your dog in his best show pose until the judge decides between the two and leaves the examination.

Earlier in this book I mentioned that I would tear apart the phrase, "in his opinion." Here I go, and to me it is most important. To me it explains dog shows and judging. There is only one other phrase in judging that can come near to it in importance, and that one will enter into our discussion of this one. What I am about to say is in spite of the fact that all breeds are judged by a Standard of perfection which has been described by the breed fanciers themselves, and all dogs are judged by comparison—one against the other.

A judge at a dog show is a human being, with intelligence, integrity, and knowledge of the breed he is judging, and he always tries to judge the dogs to the best of his ability. Now it will happen that you will see at a show certain dogs judged, and the very next day the very same dogs will be judged by another person and the placings will be different. "How," you will say, "can such a thing happen and still be correct and sincere?" Or you might say, "One judge was wrong, which one?" Well, there is no law that says we must all like exactly the same things. One man likes blonds, another prefers brunettes; one man can't stand women who jabber constantly; another abhors untidy women. I'm not being facetious. I realize that dog judging is important, but we all have our likes and dislikes and we are entitled to them, even in the dog game. One judge might be absolutely repelled by a dog with a bad bite whereas another judge will overlook the bad bite but cannot stand a light eye, and although a judge may realize that either of these are fairly insignificant faults (in some breeds), his intense dislike of one or the other cannot help but interfere with his placement of a dog who has such a fault.
By the same token, judges who also breed dogs may find it extremely difficult to get certain qualities in their own dogs and when they judge they are taken with, or at least swayed by, dogs who excel in those certain qualities which they find it almost impossible to breed into their own dogs. The hard-to-get certain quality is unknowingly magnified in the judge's mind. Isn't this a natural reaction? Judges are human, remember ?

Some judges are convinced that the beauty traits of a breed— all of them taken as a whole—the things that make one breed different from another—are more important than the structural soundness of a breed, and just as many are convinced that the reverse is true. The advocates of both sides are convinced they are right, and when they judge, their sincerity impels them to follow what they believe to be correct, often to the scorn of their opponents. But both sides are honest, both know the breed very well, and both are correct in their opinion.

Now it may also happen that you will see, let us say, four dogs judged by two different judges. The second judge will place the first judge's winner last and his last dog first. Are either of these judges wrong ? No. And I point out this example of how it can happen. I have actually been in a class of four dogs where any one of the four could have won the class and the judge would be correct. All four of the dogs were good. In fact, I found out afterward that any one of the four that won that day would have received the necessary points to complete his championship. So they were all good! They varied, yes, but each dog had only minor faults which were each about as important as the next. I'm sure the judge would have liked to have been able to say he would award first to each dog but, of course, that is impossible. The judge must place one dog first, one second, and so on. He must decide which one, on the day, is best in his opinion.

There, now, I have used the other phrase I said was important —on the day. You will hear it used often. A certain dog does not show as well one day as he does another; or his coat is not in so perfect condition one day as on another; or his weight; or he has not quite reached the high of perfection in some way on the day as he will on another. But a judge must judge the dogs as he sees them right now—as they are in the ring—on the day.

You may also notice that a certain judge will place a dog very high at a certain show and the next time he judges that particular dog he will apparently ignore him. This happens frequently in Group and Best in Show judging, but let us concern ourselves with how this can happen in breed judging. Mr. Jones gives Best of Breed to Dog A at a certain show. Two months later Mr. Jones is judging the breed again and everyone is convinced that Dog A will again win. But they are surprised when Mr. Jones puts Dog B up to Best of Breed. They shouldn't be surprised. It could be that Dog B was not present at the first show and therefore Mr. Jones did not have the opportunity to place him over Dog A. Or it could be that at the first show Dog B was not feeling up to par or was not in good condition. At the second show Dog B is in the pink of condition and, as we say, showing like a million, and Mr. Jones sees him in a different light. Mr. Jones will place the dogs as he sees them in his opinion—on the day I

You should also remember that "comparison" is an important word. A judge may tell you he likes your dog and then, when you show your dog under him, he turns you down. Well, he does like your dog, but in his opinion, on the day, he liked another dog better.

As you sit around the ringside at shows you will hear the judged critized in loud voices by other judges, by breeders, by exhibitors. They will call him everything from crazy to crooked; from senile to stupid. Don't you believe it. There will always be differences of opinion. All the art critics do not agree on which of Van Gogh's paintings is his best and all the music critics do not agree on Chopin's Preludes. Disappointment at a dog show, however, does seem to make some people want to exercise their vocal cords in public.

As far as dog shows or judges being crooked, or fixed, or influenced is concerned, take it as so much nothing from a few bad losers. I have talked to a great many people who have been in the dog game for more than ten years and every one of them agrees that the dog game is 95 per cent on the square. Not that they know the other 5 per cent exists, but they just don't want to make a definite statement they may not be able to prove. You will hear someone say, "Give me a horse race—you can always tell by the photograph which horse really wins." Hog wash! What they can't tell, or don't know or don't want to know, is which jockey is pulling which horse. And so it is in all sports, in music, arts, et cetera. But take it from me, the dog game is as clean a sport as you will find in which you can actually participate. And it's up to you, once you get in it, to keep it clean.

Now just a few more words on in his opinion and on the day.

After you are in dogs for a little while you will realize that it is a good thing the same dog does not always win. For if he did, there would be no more dog shows. Who would show his dog if he knew in advance the same dog would win every time? No one but the winner—and he wouldn't show for long if he was always all alone.
In looking at dogs which are doing a lot of winning, or at dogs which have beaten your dog, don't always be looking for faults. There never was and there never will be a perfect dog— there is always a spot or two, which could be improved. It seems that with some people, as soon as they realize they are able to recognize a fault in a dog without first being told by an expert that it exists they must talk constantly about that fault. Instead, look for and be able to recognize the good points a dog possesses. If he is a constant winner, he must be a good dog whether or not you personally think so. All of the judges who put him up can't be wrong. So try to look for the good in a dog—see him as a whole instead of a lot of minor parts held together by wire or string. This reminds me of a saying—see if you don't think it is applicable. "Quibbling over the minutia is indicative of failure to grasp the entirety."

Always be courteous to the judge. Tardiness is a discourtesy; a dirty or messy dog is not only a discourtesy to the judge it is also a disgrace to you; bad manners of any sort or sloppy clothes in the ring are a discourtesy. The dog-show judge when he is in the ring deserves and usually gets the same respect paid to him as a judge sitting in a court of law.

I remember attending a meeting, I've forgotten whether it was a debate or just a discussion, run by the Amateur Dog Judges Association. The exhibitors were putting all sorts of questions to the judges and one in particular has always remained in my mind. The exhibitor said to the panel of three judges, "Isn't there any way you judges can arrange to be more on time in your judging? Sometimes you are running behind and you go off for lunch and come back later than you should. I think it is rude of you, and I don't think it's fair to us exhibitors who have prepared our dogs for the ring to have to keep them waiting for the judge."

Mrs. George B. St. George answered the question. (In political life Mrs. St. George is Representative Katherine St. George of New York State.) In general she said, "On the contrary, I think it is you exhibitors who are unfair to the judges. We arrive on time and start judging on time but you delay, for one reason or another, the starting of every class. We need our lunch, and most of us make every effort to down it quickly and return to our assignments, but we cannot help it if the caterers are overworked or shorthanded. We give up our whole day and are not paid or even rewarded with a ribbon—sometimes not even by a 'Thank you.' You are sometimes extremely rude and offensive to us. However, always remember this, you can choose your judges, we cannot choose the exhibitors who will show under us. You get a premium list which tells you just which judge will officiate in your breed on the day and if you think that judge is rude or unfair you need not show under him: no one forces you to. But we judges never know who will be entered under us and whether or not we like the exhibitor we have no choice, we must judge his dog."
These words of Mrs. St. George are very true. No one forces you to show your dog under any particular judge. We are fortunate that we have so many shows to choose from that we need never show under anyone we consider unjust or offensive. Further along in the chapter on "tricks of the trade" I suggest that you keep a little notebook with you at all times. If you find a judge you do not like, you can write in your book next to his name: "Never show under him again." However, I'll bet that if you do write such a thing, years later you will look back at it and laugh and cross it out. The judge may by that time be a good friend of yours or at least you will have decided he is a good judge and you'll show under him any day.

You may have taken exception in several places to my saying something about "The judge being a good friend of yours," or, "This judge was a friend of mine," or, "The judge told me later." You may say to yourself, "Some people know all the judges—I don't know any judges personally. Will I win?" First let me tell you that there are just as many judges, // the dogs are equally good, who will lean over backward in order not to put up a friend as there are judges who will try to place a friend, and I mean that sincerely. Now I want to ask you a question. Would it not be an extremely peculiar person who was in the dog game any length of time who didn't have friends in the game ? And those friends could be judges, other exhibitors, show officials, professional handlers, et cetera ? If you are a normal person, sincere about dogs, you, too, will very soon be friends with lots of people in the game.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here….