Early Training

In several different places in this book I mention that certain things could have, or should have, been done while you were waiting for your puppy to grow up. Let's take just a little time right now and discuss how to do some of these things.

Let's start with the lead-breaking of your puppy since it is so important to the sound attractive stylish gait of a show dog. Let's assume that when you bought him he had never been on a lead.

There are many methods advocated by dog enthusiasts. Some allow the young puppy to drag a lead for a few days so he won't object to it. (Just be sure he doesn't learn to chew it while he is learning not to object to it.) Some folks attach a light weight to a short lead around the puppy's neck and let him carry it around so that he will learn to hold his head up high. Some use the reward method giving the dog a tidbit if he does the job well and withholding it if he does not. Once the puppy is well lead-broken it does not matter which method was used in the training since the outcome is all we are interested in. After trying many, here is the method I like best.

Start training the puppy just as soon as you get him. If you keep him in a run or pen, every time you take him on a lead you should keep in mind that this will be his training period. However, if the puppy lives in the house with you and, at least in the beginning, has to be taken out on a lead to relieve himself, there should be a difference in the manner in which you and the puppy behave while he is on the lead. Don't try to lead-break him for shows when he has other and more important business on his mind. Allow the puppy to sniff the ground and use a longer lead, giving him ample time to take care of his duties. If he is allowed to roam where he wants to and when he wants to he will scarcely be aware of the fact that he is on a lead and the duties will be taken care of quickly. With that important business out of the way you can then settle down to the training.

Now tighten up on the lead. (Shorten it by crumpling it in one hand as I advise you to do under the subject of helpful hints.) Put the collar as far forward under the dog's jaw as you can. He will resent it—perhaps fight it—some dogs jumping into the air and screaming as though they had been hurt. Wait until he quiets down and then start walking in the direction you want to go and talk to the dog. Call him by name and keep your voice pleasant. Don't drag him but keep the lead taut so he can feel in which direction he is being coaxed to go. As soon as he takes a few steps with you, praise him loudly and keep encouraging him to go along. After he goes along, try releasing the lead a bit and if he keeps going—fine! If not, use short jerks to keep him going. After the puppy goes along a reasonable distance, stop and pat him, praise him to the skies. Then start out again. Repeat this performance several times and until he goes along with you without your having to tug at him. Then praise him some more, reward him with a tidbit if you wish and stop the training on a pleasant note. You should not have to do this too often before your puppy will be lead-broken. While he is a puppy he is so easily led and he is so anxious to please that it pays dividends if you master this early.

If at any time during the training the puppy sits down or lies down and refuses to go along with you, use short tugs on the lead until he is on his feet and in a position where he can go along, and then keep tugging. Keep encouraging him, be firm not rough, and you shouldn't have any trouble. If it seems difficult at first, think of how much easier it is to do while he is small—picture you lead-breaking a frisky Great Dane puppy and then picture you lead-breaking a fully grown stubborn Great Dane! Need I say more ?

A lovely English Setter puppy receiving some early show training at home.

A word of caution: few people buy expensive or perfectly fitting collars for puppies because they outgrow them so quickly. If you are using a collar that does not fit the puppy well, check it frequently during training periods to see that it does not tighten and choke the puppy. The best collar for training is a light weight chain choke collar. Just be sure it slips through the ring correctly and easily. Employing tugs or jerks on this collar will insure that the collar will never be too tight as it will loosen itself as soon as you stop pulling or the puppy stops pulling. If it is well chosen for size the chain choke collar will fit a puppy for a long time and it has the added advantage of being long lived since the puppy cannot chew it.

After your puppy is lead-broken, remember to make a distinction whenever you take him on a lead: slow when he is taking care of himself or when playing; faster, livelier and in the direction of your choosing when practicing for shows.

Start show posing your puppy as early as possible. They soon learn to stand still and the training pays off when the show career starts.

Another thing your puppy can be trained to do while he is growing up is to stand still for trimming and grooming. The grooming should be done while the puppy is standing in a show pose and this will help in your training him to pose. The main exceptions to grooming while in a show pose are breeds such as the Poodle, Afghan Hound and the Old English Sheepdog; and oddly enough it is these exceptionally heavily coated or long haired breeds who most of all need to behave well for trimming and grooming. Let's take the Poodle first. He should, at a very early age, be taught to allow the use of clippers on his feet and face without any fuss. If you do this often enough, perhaps every week or two whether or not he needs it, the puppy will not be afraid of the clippers and eventually it will mean no more to him than the combing or brushing. When brushing the Poodle puppy, lay him on his side and insist he stay in that position until you have finished, then turn him on the other side and again insist he stay until you allow him to get up. Then go over him when he is in a standing position—a show pose position—and insist on his behaving until you are finished. Perhaps then you could take him on a lead and go through his lead work before stopping for the day.

Here is a photograph of Mrs. Claude Decker of New Milford, Conn., with one of her champion English Setters. This is a very good show pose. The picture was taken on a hot day and the dog is panting but it is a good example of a well-trained show dog in a show pose. Compare this photograph with the one below.

Here is an English Setter who had not been trained to pose. Notice she is fighting the posing enough to be off balance, the handler has pulled the head too close to him, throwing the dog out in front. (If you look carefully at the leg closest to the camera you will see that the dog appears out in elbow. Compare this front with the lovely front on the well posed dog in the picture above.)
With breeds having relatively small coat problems, the trimming and grooming should be done while the puppy is in a show pose. I recommend that all puppies should be trimmed and groomed while in a show pose on a table or crate top as it is easier for you to work on him and because of the height involved the puppy is more inclined to stand still. Never allow the puppy to determine when the chore is finished—keep him on the table until you have finished for the day and keep him as much as possible in the show pose. You will be glad you spent the time training him to do this when at an important show some day and in a great hurry, your dog stands perfectly still while you give him that final going over before entering the ring. Don't forget to get him used to clipping or filing his toe nails—that's important!

Take your puppy with you as often as possible when he is growing up. This charming young English Cocker Spaniel has gone visiting with her owner on a Sunday afternoon. She is finding out no harm is coming to her from strange places and people.

Getting your puppy used to people and strange places is another thing you can do for him while he is growing up. Take him with you as often as you can. After he is lead-broken (so you know he won't embarrass you), take him with you to the market, or the post office or to buy some cigarettes. This is even more important if you live in the country where his own back yard is all he would get to know without your help. Take him in the car with you when you go to the railroad station, airport or bus depot; if possible take him through a revolving door and in an elevator. Then when he runs into these things at a dog show, they won't faze him a bit. If you take your puppy with you in your car often enough while he is still a puppy and continue to do so while he is growing up, you will never have to car-break him or clean him up upon arrival at a show—he will be so used to traveling. Also you will never have to watch him shake and tremble at the sight of a lot of people—he will expect that each and every one is a great friend—it will reflect in his behavior and will benefit him greatly in his show career.

By all means, don't forget the best training grounds of all— the Sanctioned Match. Whether he wins or loses at the Match, the training he gets there will stand him in good stead. When you go to a Match, go through all the motions just as though it were a big and important show for the experience is good for you too. Here is where your dog will get used to being shown, handled and gaited with a strange dog beside him. I have seen well trained and well behaved puppies go all to pieces at a Match when perhaps for the first time in a long time they see many strange dogs. Remember, your dog will be expected to behave without thoroughly investigating each and every new arrival. Of course, if you have two or more dogs at home your puppy may be fairly used to company but he may expect that he can play with the new acquaintances just as he does with his friend at home and the new dog may not feel like playing or the new dog's owner may not be inclined to allow his youngster to indulge in puppy foolishness at a Match. If you have used the short, quick tugs on the lead when you lead-broke your puppy, resort to them at the Match when he gets too frisky. The puppy will soon remember that he is on a lead and is expected to perform for you. The word, "No" in a sharp tone of voice used at the same time as the sharp jerk on the lead will also help, particularly if you have used this word whenever he displeased you or you wanted him to stop doing whatever he was doing.

Talking of the use of the word, "No"; whenever you give a command to a puppy (or any dog for that matter) remember that the tone of your voice is almost more important than the word you use. Try this and see if you don't agree with me. Say the word, "No," as you would if a friend asked you if you went to the movies last night and you wanted to give a negative answer. A puppy won't know the difference between that "No" and the word, "Yes," spoken in the same tone of voice. Now think of how you might say the word, "No," if you were in a large and very noisy room and you were being accused of a wrong-doing. Make it low-pitched, fairly loud, slightly angry, clear and emphatic. This is how you should say, "No," to a puppy when you are training him and then always use the same word and the same tone. He will soon recognize and respect the command.

The two photographs are of the same novice Beagle. The second photograph was taken after just a patient bit of reposing by the novice handler. The judge cannot help but be more impressed with an animal if he sees her for the first time looking as she does in the second picture instead of the way she looks in the first picture. Frequent handling and show-posing your dog at home before the show career starts will give you and your dog more confidence when the performance is repeated at shows.

Let us go on from here, assuming that you have a good dog and have made his entry. As I mentioned before, I hope you have investigated carefully, and that your dog has no disqualifications. In certain breeds the Standard of the Breed (by which all judges are supposed to judge) lists certain faults as complete disqualifications. In all breeds cryptorchidism (male with no testicles) or monorchidism (males with one testicle) is cause for disqualification. In some breeds an undershot mouth (under jaw protruding) will disqualify. In some breeds an excess of the color white will disqualify. As well as having no disqualification, it would be well if your dog had no faults listed as serious in the Standard of the Breed. These are the reasons why I advised you so strongly to know your breed before you buy the dog and before you start to show him.

I also hope that you have had your dog inoculated by a competent veterinarian, not only against distemper and hepatitis, but for any other diseases for which vaccines are available at the time you are ready to show.

One very necessary subject that you must learn something about but which I will not go into in this book is trimming. Since practically every breed is trimmed differently—and of course some require no trimming—it is necessary that you know exactly what is done for your particular breed.

If you have studied your breed as carefully as I have advised you to do, you will begin to see that trimming may help conceal certain faults in your dog, or it may be used to emphasize his good points. Watch other people in your breed trim their dogs. Beg, if you must, permission to visit them when they are trimming. If you own a long-haired but flat-coated dog, such as a Cocker or Setter, who is just a shade wide in the shoulders, you could be of much help with a very judicious use of thinning shears. By removing some hair from underneath without interfering with the top hair, you will improve your dog at this faulty spot. If your breed should be well-chiseled between the eyes, a few hairs plucked out with the fingers or stripping knife may help him a great deal. The better you know your breed, the better you will be able to trim your dog for the show ring.

The Poodle is probably the most difficult breed to trim, with the Kerry Blue Terrier running a close second. There are many good books available on trimming; get one for your breed. Learning to trim takes a great deal of time, as does the actual task, but it is well worth the time in the long run.

Be sure that your dog's toenails are kept as short as possible. If you have a few months' waiting period before you are going to start showing your dog, do not neglect his toenails. He will have far better feet, and you will never have to go through the distasteful task of having them cut back.

From the time you purchase your puppy until the time you actually take him to a show, you should have been grooming him. Every breed requires grooming. The smooth-coated dogs will shine if rubbed with a hound glove; the dead hair will be removed from a long-haired breed by brushing. Don't neglect the grooming—it pays dividends. Someday your dog will be up against an equally good dog and at that moment it may be the condition of your dog's coat that will sway the judge in your dog's favor.

Know enough about your breed so that you can tell when your dog is in good weight. Try to show him always in the proper weight. You don't want him fat, but you certainly don't want him thin or out of condition. When I speak of condition, I do not mean weight only—I refer more to health. A healthy dog has a clear eye, he is alert, and his coat will usually reflect this state of good health. Many a good dog has been turned down in the ring for lack of condition. A dull, dead-appearing coat, or dog a who is "dead on his feet," will not be rated high in the judge's eye.

Getting away from your dog for a moment, let's talk about you—your appearance, your attitude, your general behavior at a show. Your clothes are very important. Remember the saying, "Clothes make the man" ? It's something to think about. There is nothing that is going to happen to your very good suit at a dog show that would not happen to it anywhere else. Too many men and women save their old clothes to wear to the shows, and when they are in the ring they look as though they didn't care. Also, if you wear something that is not suitable, you, instead of your dog, will catch the passing eye. Remember you are not at a dog show to show yourself but to show your dog. This is a little more important for women than for men. Men should keep themselves neat, freshly shaven, their shoes shined, trousers pressed, dust or chalk or dog hairs whisked off. And please, keep that shirt tucked in. Wearing a tie clasp will keep your tie straight, from flapping in the wind, and also from falling across your dog's head. It is considered better taste to go into the ring without a hat.

To the ladies I have a great deal more to say. Bright colors are certainly permissible, but garish ones detract from your dog. I have found that the judge gets a better picture of your dog if there is a contrast. I remember watching the judging of an all-white dog against an all-white dress—it was very hard to tell which was the dog and which was the dress. Ladies, please, wear a neckline in which, shall I say, you will be comfortable. Remember there are times when you must bend over, kneel, stoop, and run. With the running in mind, wear the proper underwear. A well-fitted bra and a sport girdle will not be uncomfortable and you will look a lot better and save yourself the embarrassment of being discussed in all four corners of the show grounds. Wear a skirt that is full enough to be graceful when you are bending or kneeling, but remember that at outdoor shows too full a skirt can be a nuisance, for the wind whips it and blows it, sometimes right over your head. Too tight a skirt, on the other hand, will keep you from gaiting your dog properly. It goes without saying that you should wear the proper heels. I don't mean that "flats" are necessary, but certainly no one can gracefully gait even a medium-sized dog in wobbly high heels. A few words to the wise may be sufficient: check the elastic in your underwear! Check the hooks and eyes and straps! It is very embarrassing in the ring to break both straps on a slip and have it fall to your ankles. I have actually seen this happen. Slacks on women are rarely as becoming as a dress, and you do want to look your best. Above all, don't look sloppy; have yourself as well groomed as your dog.
Regarding your attitude. Don't walk into the show with a chip on your shoulder. Don't have the feeling that your dog is the best and everyone there must realize it, but please, don't go to the other extreme and feel that your dog doesn't have a chance. This latter attitude frequently communicates itself to your dog and to other people. Don't talk in a voice so loud that you can be heard all over the place. Avoid bumping into other people or crowding their dogs in the aisles or in the ring. Avoid placing your belongings on the bench provided for another dog. In other words, be considerate and gentlemanly.

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